![]() I can reconfigure the space for different sizes of storage containers or quickly convert it into a big open space if needed. At most I have to move just one item out of the way. Even when it’s stuffed full I can remove most items without having to move anything else. The shelving takes up minimal volume but it makes the area far more usable. I can use the captive bungee cords to secure light loads like our camping chairs. Then I added a second set of shelf brackets at the top. It has enough clearance to be lifted up easily and repositioned to a different height or removed entirely, if desired.Īt the top of the rails I attached bungee cords using eye-bolts so they can’t get lost or slide off. The shelf is attached to the brackets with 2-inches of space between the shelf and the vertical rails behind it. It’s also 3/4-inch plywood so it’s very sturdy, and I positioned it just below the attachment bolts on the rails. Next I added a shelf 24-inches wide and 59-inches long. I plan to put only lightweight loads near the top. The rails are 34.5-inches high and, although the top half is unsupported, they are very beefy and quite rigid. At the bottom they’re held to the plywood with small angle brackets and screws. The space underneath the main section is 6.75-inches inches high.Ībove the new floor I attached three heavy-duty shelf rails, using M8 bolts to secure them to the threaded attachment points on the back wall. ![]() It’s made from two pieces of plywood so the grain of each piece runs front-to-back for rigidity. I sized it by putting the front seats in comfortable riding positions, and then building the floor to fit the available space. The new floor is 59-inches wide and 34.5-inches front-to-back. I made a 3/4-inch plywood floor that is secured to the seat attachment studs at the back and screwed into a 3/4-inch board that supports it at the front. It’s not sealed around the edges so there’s enough openings to allow air to exit the air conditioner exhaust vents on the back wall. After removing the hardware, I cut a piece of black carpet to cover the wall. The original carpet on the back wall had lots of openings and contours for the seat hardware. There were three M8-threaded attachment points conveniently located across the back wall, so I decided to use those to attach shelf supports. Everything just unbolts so this is completely reversible if I ever want to put the seat back in. I started by removing the rear seat and all the associated hardware. Finally it had to be simple, inexpensive, and not require any permanent modifications to the truck. I also wanted to be able to reconfigure the space easily and to accommodate different kinds of gear on different trips. I wanted a way to use all of the available back seat space and to be able to access any piece of gear with minimal effort. Once we had the cab loaded full of stuff, it was a major chore to access anything on the bottom without removing lots of other stuff first. ![]() We use the rear cab of our F-350 for hauling gear, not passengers, so the rear bench seat was just taking up space. Submitted by: Jay McClellan, 2018 Ford F-350, 2018 Wolf Creek 840 Dewey, Martin, Danny, and Jay have four different approaches to organizing this easy to clutter area. Some assembly required.Four readers share creative ways to maximize storage in their truck’s backseat. The seat rolls on four high-quality casters and will probably pay for itself in unused pain relievers. The lower 4” deep drawer holds bulkier items with ease, and a flip-down external tool tray adjusts to three different heights to make sure you can always reach the right pieces for your current job. The top drawer is 1” deep and is perfect for the usual top-shelf stuff: screwdrivers, wrenches, pliers, pencils, and assorted bits and bobs. At 15” tall, it’s perfect for getting into tricky spots, and its 14 1/2” x 11” dimensions make it easy to stow when not in use. This version improves on the classic low rolling stool by adding ample storage, essentially turning it into a rolling toolbox with a nicely padded seat. Even the youngest of us can get sore knees-and that’s not an area that tends to improve with age. In truth, they’re useful for just about anybody. A mechanic’s stool or “creeper seat” is a must for anyone who spends time working low to the ground-traditionally, that’s meant mechanics who spend long hours toiling on the undersides of cars or trucks or the internals of motorcycles.
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